(incredible photo of wild horses in Bosnia credited to Nils Laengner).

The pack is incredibly spread out over almost 3 countries and 600km! Chasing the gigantic snail are Andrea Spreafico and Jiri Caslava (sorry I can't find the buttons to put accents on your name!), at around 350km. The snail represents the cutoff time for reaching Risan on the Montenegrin coast in time for the finishers party. It also represents the closing of checkpoints along the route. CP1 closes tomorrow night and these two will have to ride about 100km to reach it in time. 

At the other end, Justinas Leveika is still in the lead.  Benedek Borsos has managed to close this gap to less than 10km. Justinas has only recorded ONE HOUR of stopped time across 3 full days and 2 nights of riding. Something has GOT to give! SURELY!? Benedek has recorded 5h45 stop time and this may explain why he is slowly chasing back on.

![IMG 5404](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/BWA48f3XsnDiZIrPMn3rm/327f23e7ec31f1a7a38634371732fca5/IMG_5404.jpg)
(credit Nils Laengner)

Across the top-10 Sofiane Sehili is the only rider who has recorded more than 5.5ish hours of stopped time, with almost 10 hours stopped! Resting will make him faster, and this evening he has moved into 3rd position - overtaking David Gambulli and Simon Gwiggner. It truly is an unfathomably fast race. The top two are already out the other side of Mostar and headed toward the 1000km mark (leaving only 400km to go!) and Montenegro. Adam Palin is having a very strong ride too, currently in 5th. He scratched last year with a knee injury in Livno and vowed to return this year to finish the job. Having recently set an FKT in England, he is on top form and is fairly flying along. He has passed Livno now, and hopefully put these demons to bed. Sofiane is still 60/70km behind 2nd place. 

Back in Croatia, there are about 7 people at CP1 with Marie Gest only 2km away (perfect timing for some hot food and a kip Marie!) Marie is in 85th place.

Since CP1 riders will start experiencing increasingly rugged terrain. Much more hiking, and rhythmical doubletrack begins to give way to spicy, technical 4x4 tracks where flow is elusive. There are momentary glimmers, such as the final pass over toward Mostar, but on the whole the terrain and the tracks become unrelenting from the Croatian border into the Bosnian heartland.

Laura Johannes is still leading the womens's field sitting in 24th at KM570. She is riding a strong race and about 40km ahead of Susanna Markoff who is in Knin. From my experience it is at this stage of the race when some of the faster male riders might have burnt all their matches and become ill and injured, we might start seeing some scratches higher up in the field and bumping up the leading women's positions overall. We'll see. Jade Simpson Field is 3rd and 50th overall, and delighted to see her hanging about with SuperZone teammate Carl Hopps earlier in the day.

It has been a scorcher! Tibo (Cap 29) posted a picture registering 38 degrees today. All those lovely sunrises come at a price eh! That has potential to wreak havok on the field, especially when water resupply is a constant problem. 

![IMG 5395](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/4y75wF9575HstxLt5E9Muj/55e6a9bf5c074271d29912ad60e5e94b/IMG_5395.jpg)

A note to readers: if you want more frequent and beautifully crafted updates from the race then follow @transbalkanrace on instagram. Bea is doing a fantastic job at reportage. Much better than me! She is describing the sorts of terrain facing the riders. An excerpt from today:

*The riders are now weaving through the borderland between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, up up high to Boblja pass and Dinara highlands. Here, every forest path, every ridgeline, every quiet valley carries echoes of a complicated past.*

*The landscape is raw and powerful — limestone cliffs, hidden valleys, and ridgelines that seem to go on forever. But beneath the beauty lies a deeper story.*

*These are lands shaped by the legacy of ex-Yugoslavia, where war left scars on the land and the people. Once part of a single nation, now divided by history and borders, these territories are full of silent markers: abandoned houses, memorials, and reminders of a conflict that tore families and communities apart.*

*Yet, there’s also a quiet resilience here. A sense that the land is healing, that the forests grow back, and that life keeps moving forward. The borderlands are both a wound and a promise. A testament to the cost of division, and to the power of endurance.*

*As the riders roll through these landscapes, they’re not just crossing a line on the map but through layers of memory, history, and hope.*
(@transbalkanrace)

Day 3: Leaving Croatia behind (for some) and will Justinas ever go to bed?

whilst most of the leading riders have made it to Knin  (km 530) and opted for a few hours kip indoors, Justinas has opened up a whopping gap. He has crested infamous Boblja pass - the last big off-road pass before another long asphalt climb leads him into Bosnia. The miles wont come easy, however, as there are some gruelling cow-dung-mud-cake-lumpy tracks with landmine signs strewn about before he hits the sweet tarmac.

He might be headed for Livno tonight but he wouldn't arrive there until the early hours when the rest of the riders will be back on the chase. Surely he will need to rest soon?

He has reached the 600km mark, with David Gambuli 30km behind, at the foot of the pass, possibly 3 hours behind.

By now, 18 riders have made it to CP1, Marcus Nicholson arriving any minute. The leading pair Gabriel and Miguel from Spain may make it tonight. A flurry of riders will arrive first thing including the leading woman Laura Johannes who looks to be camped up in the forest climb just before descending to the CP.Susanna, Jade and Claire not far off and still riding well.

A party has ensued in Gospic, too many to count there. 

Others have found early on the wonders of balkan hospitality as they've passed. thanks Philip Nusbaum for the shot. he seems to be having a jolly old time. And only 21!

![IMG 5387](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/e9jYpP79A89HyeaV51qL2/680ae3c161ef67a4eb1968bc9bff6073/IMG_5387.png)

and is it me or does Sofiane always seem to be in the pain cave??

![IMG 5388](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/2EaCLcQW5NnGa68ZJxQBiT/cf2adab41155f969c8d3a29f89e49ed6/IMG_5388.png)


End of Day 2

This race has gotten off to a blistering start, helped along by fantastic riding conditions making for easier miles and beautiful sunrises. 

About 13 riders stopped in Fuzine last night, opting for indoor accommodation, whilst plenty more carried on into the night and found some beautiful bivvy spots, pictured above (credit to Nils Laengner).

The women's field has seen a change up. Laura Johannes is now leading and in 26th overall having had a very efficient rest of 3 or so hours. 20km behind is Susanna Markoff. Clare Stevens, Beatrice  Weglarz and Jade Simpson Field are all 10-15km behind her in the mid-pack overall. Sadly, i've learned that Leanne Bentley (yesterday's front runner) has had to scratch owing to achilles issues. I hope she gets some rest and continues to cruise down these beautiful countries.

The top riders are absolutely *crushing* the first segment of the TBR.

At 10am Justinas rolled into CP1 which is 443km in, just short of 1 full day into the race. Pretty mindblowing stuff. He has already left the warm embrace of the volunteers at Mazin (last year I was welcomed by the race organiser's parents and handed a fluffy towelling gown for a shower) and is 20km ahead of 2nd rider Benedek Borsos who recently arrived to the CP.

20-30km behind the leading two are the rest of the riders at the pointy end: David Gambulli, Simon Gwiggner, Sofiane Sehili, Adrien Liechti and Adam Palin. Of these top 7, only Sofiane is showing as having stopped for a proper rest (stop time of 3.5 hours vs the others at 0m to 24m). Benedekt took a little nap by a river before the shops opened in Gospic. Meanwhile Adrien had found warmer shelter in the park ranger's toilets at the Velebit National Park.
![IMG 5383](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/6Licpaa12z6kmjV14t6RtK/1abc1b1e4c0c1b7819adb6ba1ad437b2/IMG_5383.jpg)

Pictured is David Gambulli at the metropolis of Gospic, one of the more decent resupply points along the route and perhaps the first time these top riders have stopped. He is pictured here (a screengrab from a video by Luca Petrinka @exploro.cc) "ultra-eating" and dipping a whole chocolate swiss roll into a pot of kefir. Truly dirtbag stuff. I like it, David.

Sofiane started the day 30km behind the leading riders and is already back in the mix. Rest really pays off. It is just science. The less you rest the slower you become, but it's about finding the perfect balance. But that's enough unsolicited advice.

Once out of CP1, riders face a tough section to reach the next resupply at Knin. Think steep pushes into high meadows and washed out descents. Beautiful though, and the weather looks perfect for it.

TBR Day 2: to sleep or not to sleep. The age old question

And just like that, the race has begun!

More than 100 riders assembled at the Hotel Prunk in Sezana last night to sign on. Riders tottered around the hotel and the neighbourhood gathering the last of their snacks and finding the perfect spot for their mayonnaise/bear spray/pocket knife

![IMG 5367][1]![IMG 5368][2]![IMG 5374][3]
![IMG 5376][4]

The race is chockablock with people from all over Europe and much further afield too - Morocco, Colombia, Canada and Australia are amongst the flags representing riders homelands. 

Of the 160 pre-race sign ups, 16 or so were women - so there is some definite room to get more brilliant women on future startlines. Women, if you're reading this, this race is for you! 

Jade Field is no stranger to an ultra race so she and her sandals will be finding their groove about now. I am also delighted to see Clare Stevens flying over from Australia, having met her at the end of GBDuro in 2021. And extra especially delighted to see Michela Pedranti racing this year, having been on the other end of the camera last year. Go well Michela!

![85bb040c-c539-41fd-bb80-2f0519f2b816][5]

There are some very fast and experienced riders in the mix here, which will make for a very interesting race - Sofiane Sehili, Adrien Liechti, Justinas Leveika are all household names by now and will have plenty of strong riders to push against over the next few days. And I would add Marcus Nicholson, Carl Hopps and Adam Palin to the list of strong male riders who I know about. 

![4daa84b6-80ad-4311-a375-df528fab9bbd][6]

160 people claimed a place on this race (though only 107 are currently pinging) and I am here voluntarily so I have not yet dug into the depth of the racing field to provide juicy details of the riders. __I never like the 'ones to watch' aspect of dotwatcher commentary, because it inevitably leaves people out and makes people feel bad. But rest assured dear readers that as the race progresses I will begin to delve into riders and their stories.__

__But I need your help!__ Please message me on instagram @lemkiss if you would like to share any stories of your own ride or people you are dotwatching. I'd love to hear them and share them along.

11 hours have now passed since the riders set off! Inevitably, belongings have been lost and mechanicals have been experienced. 

![c27eda9f-becc-4b77-8909-9808cf715856][7]

But here's Bea to tell you what our courageous field have borne withness to today:

*"The first section of the race runs along the shifting line between Slovenia and Croatia, crossing the border twice. After a brief taste of international diplomacy, riders will reach the stunning ridge of Golič, offering glimpses of the Adriatic Sea on one side and Slovenia’s high peaks on the other. This section has already been featured on the Trans Balkan, but never in its most brutal form. And what better time than the present to introduce it?

Then comes the dive into the Sežnik forest — “the snowy mountain” by name and nature. Expect cooler air, dense woods, beautiful trails… and a rather large population of brown bears (just passing through, we promise).

After crossing into Croatia for good, riders will roll through one of the smoothest stretches of the entire route: Risnjak National Park — a pristine haven of pine forests, mountain streams, and yes, the elusive lynx.

This is just the beginning. The legs are fresh, the spirits high… and the Balkans are waiting."*

As I am writing, 15 riders are through the handy resupply of Fuzine and out the other side into some big climbs. 3 riders have set a blistering pace: Benedek Borsos and Sofiane Sehili are out in front with Justinas just behind. They've created an almost 40km gap on the 4th rider David Gambuli.  I wonder if they will sleep tonight.... This race is attritional, and often we find that not sleeping leads to big problems later down the line. Let's see.

Leanne Bentley of UK is 24th (which is great going so early in the race) and has a 20km lead over Laura Johannes of Germany who is in 35th.

__All photos credited to Nils Laengner__

[1]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/7knTCDxgTEXqii1fyV3wB1/5c3742b328b37d2fa23954f7ad20f97e/IMG_5367.jpg
[2]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/3yBpm8xkIbo4jjF8PfvwnE/a60f08ac2bec81635d8055038cf7cdbd/IMG_5368.jpg
[3]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/3mQQ3GnXwGNB2t2oGjICtP/4eb76ba960c9b787926374451f7d2f63/IMG_5374.jpg
[4]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/2WmVFPLOQ9bJERMVL44hbB/c8b7cd0a205314c69b76eab85e8b513f/IMG_5376.jpg
[5]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/4yjBN4TfcDoOmFxTqgsi0a/da9272d8737a3e40cfcb17048b5da6ec/85bb040c-c539-41fd-bb80-2f0519f2b816.JPG
[6]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/2fgT3RBRxD0x5WZ1GxKwFY/0a142c4316bef84ec3685c412dbdddf5/4daa84b6-80ad-4311-a375-df528fab9bbd.JPG
[7]: //images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/2gXxdRL7GDW4gVAdBSesC0/673664facd5157a3f2508d33640d01b6/c27eda9f-becc-4b77-8909-9808cf715856.JPG

And they're off!

The Trans Balkan Race set off *__this morning__* and I am screeching in sideways to provide you with all the mouth watering context you need to __get your chops right in__ to this race.

The TBR is truly a love song of the Balkans. Snaking its way 1400km south from Slovenia to the Montenegrin coast, following the Dinaric Alps in all their rugged, Karstic beauty through Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Montenegro.

Riders will cross fairly quickly into Croatia where they will remain in the embrace of its undulating forests until CP1 where the route begins to get a wee bit more rugged.

The route has been designed by Bea - a resident of Sezana where the race starts - and notably a woman:

*> “In the world of ultra-distance racing and bikepacking, women are still the exception — not the norm. And out of all the races on the international calendar, very few are created, organized, and directed by women.
> But this one is.

> Led by a female Race Director and built by a woman who lives and breathes bikepacking, this race isn’t just about kilometers and checkpoints — it’s about rewriting who gets to lead, design, and imagine adventure from the ground up.”*
(Trans Balkan Race organisers)

The race manual, refreshingly, spends great time detailing the landscape, flora and fauna riders will meet along the way. Forested hillsides, alpine meadows bursting with colour and the sound of insects, and rugged moonscapes where water resupply is scarce.

In fact, across the 1400km and 26,000^m elevation there are only 16 resupply points listed. Miss them and you can easily get into trouble. Water does not flow from the mountains as I am used to in Scotland.

![TBR-day4-Nils Laengner-0804](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/Yq7GsJNVH1FTknVLqLjZz/71b8f69c19628c1ee658aefab64b9ae2/TBR-day4-Nils_Laengner-0804.jpg)

                                                                (credit Nils Laengner)

Riders often get hung up on the presence of bears. Lots of us had an encounter with bears last year. My own encounter was surreal and momentarily scary and caused me to spontaneously burst into Adele’s greatest hits as I continued up the climb on a quiet grey morning. On reflection, the bear which ran across my path was a lumbering, shaggy, but ultimately shy beast. And a lovely thing to have seen. Mountain dogs are a more serious concern, since they guard Shepard flocks and are likely to be present in the high pastures. I’ve never run into any issues but I know of many scary stories. Perhaps that is why this man has stashed a knife on his calf........(?!!??!) TBH not sure if it's any more useful than chucking a rock. 

![IMG 5376](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/1ySFQ3G34mHDzoB9hTQ34Z/997c39f9a07198c5ff55b8005d16b497/IMG_5376.jpg)

(credit Nils Laengner)

The route is more than 85% off road, and largely rideable (apparently 99% on fresh legs and an unloaded bike which is ultimately not how our riders will be!). Whilst the route is not technical, with just a tickle of singletrack, its difficulty is not to be underestimated.

If there was one thing the finishers last year agreed upon, we all seriously mistook how hard this route would be. The climbing felt endless, and our bodies felt battered.

But the route is so expertly designed that it is more than worth it.

*> “This isn’t just a route. It’s a story told through landscapes. A trail that weaves across borders, over wild passes, through villages lost in time, and valleys carved by wind and weather.*

![TBR-day4-Nils Laengner-0479](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/2zKnjCcjvxFlldJKvU1C5E/53e3be500fca57c05c98d37afd019521/TBR-day4-Nils_Laengner-0479.jpg)

                                                                (credit Nils Laengner)

*> You’ll ride where maps blur, where asphalt gives way to rock, and where the silence is so vast it roars. From the limestone peaks of Slovenia to the highlands of Montenegro. Through Bosnia’s remote trails and Croatia’s rugged heartlands. Crossing borders, literal and emotional, every single day.*

![TBR-day3-Nils Laengner-9080](//images.ctfassets.net/6hyijb95boju/61FtUFtRdNKwm6U2xoC7jH/46a0faed76daaea43921dfc2fd0232ee/TBR-day3-Nils_Laengner-9080.jpg)

                                                              (credit Nils Laengner)

*> The Trans Balkan Race is not just about going fast. It’s about going deep. It’s a test of endurance, grit, and the quiet resilience that grows in solitude. A route that’s raw, remote, and real — because that’s what the Balkans are.”* (Trans Balkan Race organisers)

Whilst this might sound lyrical, it is an entirely accurate description of the route and the race. I came away humbled and bursting with gratitude for Bea and Lucas efforts in curating such a rich, challenging and beautiful event.

More to follow about registration and the race start


Trans Balkan Race 2025: Race overview

Alice Lemkes

Now in its fourth edition, the Trans Balkan Race is an off-road adventure across the Balkans. 1,400km through remote mountains, wild landscapes, and rugged borderlands — deep into one of Europe’s last untamed regions.

DotWatcher.cc

Trans Balkan Race 2025

Distance — Elevation

Terrain

Website

Last Year's Female Winner

Last Year's Male Winner

Covered By:

Leaderboard

Events Feed